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Dr. Muhammad Farooq

The author works under the Ministry of Defense.

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Hilal English

Chameleons of War,How Military Uniforms Evolved to Meet Combat Demands

November 2024

From the battlefield to the parade ground, military uniforms have undergone a dramatic evolution, reflecting the shifting tides of warfare and strategy.



Military commanders have always been concerned with inflicting casualties on enemy forces while simultaneously securing their own. Among other measures, camouflage and concealment are the best ways to deceive enemy forces. When planning for the concealment of troops, strategists also preferred uniform colors that could easily merge with the background and help troops undertake swift mobility and maneuvers. Lightweight, weather-friendly, easy-to-adapt, and durable uniforms have been used by different contemporary armies around the world.
Before the advent of camouflage-colored uniforms, the shine and shape of traditional uniforms were concealed using mud, leaves, and other conventional means. Although different armies adopted various camouflage colors to blend with their environments, this practice was common across all armies, making it predictable for each other.
To pursue the strategy of securing their forces and annihilating the enemy, improvements in cloth type, comfort, and color remained a permanent practice. During British rule in the sub-continent, they assessed different techniques adopted by tribesmen and their way of fighting. These tribes were quick at maneuvering and would switch their location through conventional camouflage. The British also modified their art of concealment and employed new techniques against the tribesmen during future conflicts. 
From the outset, the British forces wore red coats and white pants as their uniform, which resembled their original flag colors and served royal values.1 It was also believed that the blood stains would not be visible on the red uniform, thus helping to maintain the morale of troops as well as the public during different conflicts. Traditionally, the drab (dull) colors were used in England by the gamekeepers and some irregular units who adopted green color jackets as part of their tactics to camouflage themselves. However, the interaction between the tribes and British authorities helped the British conclude that British forces and colonial troops must adopt local outfits that suited the tropical weather conditions of the subcontinent. 


the British forces wore red coats and white pants as their uniform, which resembled their original flag colors and served royal values. 


In December 1846, Sir Harry Lumsden (later Lieutenant General) raised "The Queen's Own Corps of Guides" for frontier service from British Indian recruits in Peshawar. The corps was uniformed in native dress, consisting of a smock and white pajama trousers made of cotton, supplemented by a leather or cotton jacket for cold weather.2 Sir Harry believed that local fighters could be countered by adopting native dress that matched the active and flexible maneuvering in the border tribal regions. He purchased white cotton from Lahore and rubbed it with mud after soaking it in river water to blend in with the soil background. The dress was locally camouflaged using different dyes, such as grey, mud, and yellowish drab shades. Subsequently, all regiments, including British and Indian, serving in the region, were issued dyed khaki uniforms for active service and summer dress, resulting in improved maneuverability and concealment. The original khaki fabric was a closely twilled cloth made of linen or cotton.
Military Use of Khaki Uniform
The word ‘khaki’ means ash-color in Hindi and ‘dust’ in Persian, which merges easily with the soil background. Khaki color, due to its resemblance with the earth and ease of concealment, remained the focus of military commanders. Khaki cloth is lightweight and yellowish-green, which supports military forces in hiding in the background of the ground and trees. The khaki uniform made the troops less vulnerable to the enemy observation and attacks. This uniform was light and could prevent dehydration for troops during prolonged deployments in hot weather.3   


With the dawn of the 20th century, khaki uniform had become the official dress of many contemporary armies to achieve flexibility and greater maneuverability.  


The British and Indian regiments continued wearing khaki uniforms; however, the use of this uniform was discontinued after the mutiny of 1857, once complete control over the subcontinent was established. The main argument against khaki was based on the early fading of the color and its inconsistency with increased exposure to weather conditions. Gradually, the British forces concluded that their traditional royal red and white uniforms were not suitable for the terrain due to their weight and thickness, which could cause dehydration in the summer. The strategists believed that khaki color would be more prudent and suitable for the stay in the subcontinent. With the invention of fast dye that produced a consistent yellowish-brown color and enhanced the durability of the uniform in extreme weather, the British reintroduced the khaki uniform as working dress in 1861.4 Due to the reservations of Indian troops, the British authorities officially declared khaki uniform as military outfit during the Abyssinian campaign, but only for the Indian troops, whereas the British forces retained their royal colors despite their demerits. Different dye colors were used to differentiate among the regiments. Thereafter, the khaki uniform was used for subsequent wars, including the Afghan war of 1878-80 and World War II.5 Similarly, the khaki uniform was also used by the Indian troops during the campaigns in Egypt (1880-82) and reconquest of Sudan (1897-98). The word ‘khaki’ and its definition were added to the English dictionary by the end of 19th century. 
The British forces began wearing khaki uniforms in 1904, though the shade and style continued to evolve. In 1924, a new, slightly green shade with less reflection of khaki was introduced. This shade was adopted by other colonial forces under French and Italian control, although they retained elements of their traditional attire. Germany also favored khaki uniforms for troops deployed in Africa and other regions. The U.S. Army adopted khaki uniforms for their light weight and flexibility during the Spanish-American War in 1898 to avoid dehydration, officially declaring khaki as its summer dress in 1903 to combat heat fatigue.
With the dawn of the 20th century, khaki uniform had become the official dress of many contemporary armies to achieve flexibility and greater maneuverability.6  It survived its use during world wars and the interwar period; however, its shade kept changing according to weather conditions and the battlefield. The British forces and their Indian regiments continued wearing darker and greener shades of the uniform to provide more robustness and flexibility. During the second half of WWII, American olive drab evolved into a distinctly greener shade known as olive green. The U.S. forces popularized this uniform, referring to it as 'Chinos' due to the cloth being imported from China. Many NATO-participating countries adopted the U.S. military style, including the olive-green color, which is often referred to as khaki in several European countries.
Historical Background of Khaki Uniform in Pakistan Army
During British rule in the subcontinent, Muslims of united India served the British government by joining the military and fighting on various fronts. After the partition of India, Pakistan emerged on the world map and adapted the khaki uniform from the British military dress code. In 1947, the Pakistan Army adopted this legacy, with the color becoming a symbol of sacred values in the newly established Islamic state. 
After independence, Pakistan army uniform continued with the British pattern of khaki uniform between 1947-1971 due to economic and financial crisis; thus, changing the pattern of uniform was not feasible. However, a new ceremonial dress was introduced that was green in color. After 1971, the first camouflage uniform was introduced, becoming Pakistan's first combat uniform, though inspired by British combat dress. Officially adopted in 1990, this uniform remained in use until 2010. Today, the camouflage outfit serves as combat dress, offering more flexibility and comfort in the field, while the khaki uniform is reserved for static institutions and ceremonial functions.


The invention of aerial reconnaissance, smokeless guns, long-range weapons, and military photography for battlefield analysis and enemy deployment information pushed armies to adopt improved camouflage fabrics and techniques.


The Guides Cavalry and two Frontier Force regiments (Guides Infantry) are considered the descendants of the British Guides. In recognition of this historical heritage, current army dress regulations authorize the Guides to wear their traditional drab mess kit as their distinctive color. 
The khaki uniform was adopted by contemporary armies during the interwar period due to its effectiveness in camouflage and concealment. Its greatest advantages were its ability to blend with the background, as well as its durability and flexibility for troops. After independence, the Pakistan Army also continued the legacy of the khaki uniform, which remained the standard combat dress for an extended period. However, the traditional soldier’s attire was heavy and uncomfortable, limiting maneuverability and making it difficult to quickly transition between different theaters of operation. Its conspicuous color also made soldiers easy targets for opponents.
In pursuit of modernization and enhanced concealment, camouflage colors gained prominence due to their ability to blend with operational environments. With the advent of advanced technologies, the importance of camouflage increased, undergoing several transitions. The invention of aerial reconnaissance, smokeless guns, long-range weapons, and military photography for battlefield analysis and enemy deployment information pushed armies to adopt improved camouflage fabrics and techniques. The Pakistan Army also shifted from khaki to camouflage uniforms, adapting to various operations across the country, particularly in counterterrorism efforts. Today, both camouflage and khaki uniforms are used by the Pakistan Army.


The author works under the Ministry of Defense.


24 New Technology Trends in 2024: Exploring the Future by Nikita Duggal.  https://www.simplilearn.com/top-technology-trends-and-jobs-article
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"Khaki." Military History Wiki. https://military-history.fandom.com/wiki/Khaki. Accessed October 2, 2022.
Kumar, Mukesh. "Importance of Khaki Uniforms." Tutorials Point, December 20, 2022. https://www.tutorialspoint.com/importance-of-khaki-uniforms.
“The History of Khakis and Chinos." Canoe Club. https://shopcanoeclub.com/blogs/editorial/the-history-of-khakis-and-chinos#:~:text=Khaki%2C%20the%20color%2C%20was%20first,unchanged%20through%20World%20War%20II.
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Muzquiz, Albert. "The History of Khaki: Anything But Drab." Heddels, May 30, 2019. https://www.heddels.com/2019/05/history-khaki-anything-drab/. Accessed October 2, 2022.

Dr. Muhammad Farooq

The author works under the Ministry of Defense.

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