Naila Kiani made history as the first Pakistani woman to successfully conquer the 8,000-meter-high Gasherbrum-II mountain. The expedition was also significant as it marked Naila’s inaugural summit. On July 22, 2022, Naila achieved the remarkable feat of being the second Pakistani woman to summit K2 by the difference of a meagre three hours. However, Naila is the first Pakistani woman to succeed on her first attempt. In May, 2023, she successfully climbed Mount Everest and was subsequently awarded the Sitara-e-Imtiaz, which is Pakistan’s third-highest civilian honor. She has summited ten 8000-meter peaks in all. She is not only an acclaimed mountaineer but also a career banker, trained boxer and a skilled rock climber.
Speaking with Hilal for Her, she shared her experiences about both adversities and opportunities that came her way as a mountain climber.
How did a career banker in Dubai end up becoming a renowned mountaineer, boxer, and rock climber?
I am essentially an Aerospace Engineer, and it was from there that I transitioned into the field of sports. However, my penchant for exploring various athletic disciplines led me to venture into rock climbing. Five years ago, I embarked on a trekking expedition, and this experience served as a significant inspiration, driving me towards mountaineering. In the midst of my banking career, I undertook a K2 trek five years ago; it was my initial step, and my growing interest in mountain climbing pushed me further into this adventurous pursuit.
I began my very first mountain expedition about two and a half years ago. It is worth noting that I had planned a trip to Nepal three and a half years ago, but unfortunately, it got canceled due to the COVID-19 outbreak. I was on leave about two and a half years ago when I went to Gasherbrum II, a peak located in Pakistan, also known as G2 (world’s 13th highest mountain peak to climb), solely for the experience and without any aspirations for records or accolades. I was uncertain whether I would succeed in reaching the summit, but my dedication to diverse physical activities has kept me in good shape. However, it appeared that fortune favored me and I was successful.
Your wedding photos from the K2 base camp went viral in 2020. Has your love for mountaineering played a role in your personal life?
I had no desire for an extravagant wedding, but there was considerable family pressure, particularly from my husband’s side, for a lavish celebration. To avoid that, I made the unconventional decision to hold a small wedding celebration at the K2 base camp, with the idea that a more traditional wedding reception could follow if our families wished to have it. In 2018, we had planned a trek, but due to a family emergency, my husband had to cancel it but he urged me not to miss the opportunity to see K2. Fortunately, I had packed a fancy dress for my wedding photo shoot. Despite my husband’s absence, upon seeing me in a wedding dress, the people at the base camp began celebrating as though a bride had arrived. 
Surprisingly, my wedding photos went viral two years later. During that period, I did not hold it as a cherished memory, mainly because my husband was not present. In 2020, the wedding photos garnered significant attention, and in 2021, I accomplished my first peak summit. Some people assumed that I began mountaineering after gaining popularity, but that is not the case. I had been planning it since 2018 when our initial trek was canceled, and I actively commenced preparations in 2019; this shows the profound importance of mountains in my life. I have a deep love for the mountains, and while many people adore being in the mountains, I took it to the extreme by forgoing my Valima celebration to be in the mountains with ten strangers.
Did you ever consider giving up in the face of the harsh challenges in mountaineering, and if so, what kept you going?
No. There were numerous obstacles and challenges, and the problem is that it is extremely difficult for me to describe them without referring to a documentary or film. People do not fully comprehend the difficulties of mountaineering until they are able to visualize it. When they see me, they frequently conclude that the activity is not that strenuous. It is incredibly difficult, but due to my diminutive stature and weight, I risk appearing fragile and being labelled ‘Sinf-e-Nazuk’. Nevertheless, fortunately, I possess remarkable physical and mental fortitude. Despite numerous obstacles, I never contemplated giving up my passion of mountain climbing. I was recently involved in an incident that resulted in the demise of four individuals on that expedition. At such times, one does contemplate whether or not the endeavor is worthwhile.
I would like to add that it is not that I consider myself superhuman, impervious to any harm. Mountaineering is undoubtedly extremely risky, and at any given moment, anything can happen to anyone; however, I have faith. Every time I leave home, I recite my ‘Dua-e-Safar’ (prayer for travel), especially, when I leave my tent on the mountains for a summit, I recite the travel prayer believing that Allah will protect me in the mountains. Alhamdulillah, so far, I have summited ten of the world’s highest mountains, including some of the most frightening peaks, and not a scratch has come my way. This does not mean that I would not face any challenges, but it certainly shows my unwavering faith in the power of these prayers. It also does not mean that I will keep praying in a dangerous situation and assume that Allah will save me. Recently, I encountered a risky situation; I assessed the entire situation, and even though the summit was just 350 meters away, I turned back because I knew it was not safe. People have lost their lives, and I knew it could happen to me too so I also assess the information using faculties that the Almighty has blessed humans with.
Mountaineers often face traumas during expeditions. Have you ever sought therapy to deal with such traumas, and how did it help you?
I would say this a very important issue that is often ignored. After K2, someone from the US Army told me that I might be dealing with Post-traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD). He suggested I consult with someone. During my most recent expedition to Shishapangma, I unfortunately witnessed the tragic loss of four lives. I have no shame in acknowledging that I required therapy to help me overcome the trauma. I did have therapy several years ago, but not during my mountaineering adventures. However, I definitely need it now, and I hope it will be beneficial.
You made history by becoming the first Pakistani woman to summit ten peaks with altitudes exceeding 8,000 meters. Please share your thoughts on this remarkable achievement and the challenges you overcame to achieve this milestone?
The challenges that I have encountered in my mountaineering journey have been multifaceted. Firstly, I have had to establish a solid family support system to ensure my children are well-cared for during my absence. Secondly, finding a balance between family responsibilities, work, training, and the preparations for expeditions has been a constant juggling act. Financial concerns have always been a challenge, where there is an uncertainty of future sponsorships; though I was fortunate to secure a reliable sponsor in Bilquis and Abdul Razak Dawood (BARD) foundation. Preparing for these expeditions has been an arduous task both physically and mentally, demanding unwavering dedication. The absence of emotional support while on expeditions, with no family present has often left me feeling homesick. Dealing with the persistent challenge of criticism and online abuse has also been emotionally challenging.
What was the most challenging aspect of climbing Mount Everest for which you received Sitara-e-Imtiaz?
While Everest may be the most renowned, it was not the most strenuous climb in my experience. The freezing temperatures posed the greatest challenge. Following this achievement, I proceeded to conquer another peak, Lhotse. When I came down, I received the news of being honored with the Sitara-e-Imtiaz, I was absolutely astounded. Even now, it feels surreal, yet at the same time, it gives me a profound sense of pride and humility.
You are a source of inspiration and pride for Pakistani women. What advice would you give to aspiring female mountaineers?
My advice to aspiring female mountaineers would be to begin this journey with genuine intentions. Nowadays, many individuals pursue climbing for the sake of fame and often remain unsuccessful in reaching the summit. Instead, climb for the pure love of mountaineering and enriching experience that it offers, and success will naturally follow you. However, before all that make yourself physically and mentally robust. HH

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